By: Andrew
This guide provide the basic information required to setup a freshwater aquarium.
More research is recommended.
Required Equipment:
* Aquarium
* Substrate (usually gravel or sand)
* Filter
* Filter media
* Heater
* Thermometer
* Decorations (plants, rocks, driftwood...)
* Water test kits
* Fish food
* Vacuum
* Net
* Glass Scrubber
* Bucket
STEP 1: Responsibility
Setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium is not very difficult. Before deciding that keeping tropical fish is for you, please realize that the amount of time and effort required to properly maintain a healthy aquarium is comparable to taking care of a dog or cat. Performing maintenance will be require once a week or more, with a absolute minimum of once every two weeks. This, for the most part, involves water changes and general cleaning. Topical fish must be fed at least once each day, in most cases two times a day is preferred.
Not only does a freshwater aquarium require time and work, but it also is an expense. Filter media and fish food are the two items that will need to be purchased often (every few months).
Hopefully you are still up for the challenge and satisfaction of taking care of a freshwater aquarium!!!
STEP 2: Aquarium Size
Each fish grows to a certain size, and therefore requires an aquarium that is suitable for its maximum size. By knowing which type of fish you will have, you can determine what size aquarium you will need. OR, you can determine what fish to buy based on the size of aquarium that you want to have.
Most beginners start with a 10 to 20 gallon aquarium. But, if you feel this may to small, please start with a larger aquarium because you will soon find that your 10 to 20 gallon just does not cut it.
STEP 3: Aquarium Location
Your aquarium should be placed in an area where the lighting and temperature will not be extremely altered. This means avoiding windows and heater vents. Direct sunlight should not come in contact with your aquarium, since this will result in green algae growth.
The stand you choose to mount the aquarium on must be sturdy and able to hold the total weight. (Filled aquariums roughly weigh 10lbs per gallon of water ex. 20 gallon = 200 pounds)
STEP 4: Buying Aquarium and Equipment
Since fish stores usually carry different brands they often has significantly different prices. It is often worth taking the time to compare prices and quality and purchase equipment from a variety of stores. Online shopping (websites) are now very competitive and offer great prices and fast shipping.
You heater and filter must be capable of operating on your tank size. A general rule is to purchase the product for the next size that listed on the box. (Ex. You have a 20 gallon aquarium, purchase a heater and filter capable of running on a 30 or 40 gallon aquarium) This will be of benefit since your aquarium will run more efficiently and also, if you chose you upgrade your aquarium size, you will already have equipment that may be able to work on a larger aquarium.
**A hang-on-the-back or canister filter is recommended.**
**A submersible heater is recommended. **
Substrate should be between 1-3 inches in most cases, depending on the species of fish, and how much they tend to dig. A general rule is 1.5 pounds of gravel or sand per gallon of water.
STEP 5: Set Up Aquarium and Stand
ONLY USE WATER TO WASH YOUR TANK!!! DO NOT USE SOAP!!!
Soap is harmful to tropical fish.
STEP 6: Wash Substrate And Decorations
Wash gravel or sand very good before adding to your aquarium to remove any dust or bacteria.
First add the substrate, then place your plants, rocks, driftwood as you desire.
STEP 7: Add Water
Place a plate on top of the substrate and pour water directly onto the plate. This will spread the water evenly and avoid moving the substrate around. Add the proper amount of de-chlorinator into a bucket and then fill with water. (This will remove harmful chlorine from the water) Add the water to the aquarium. Repeat until the aquarium is filled approximately one inch from the top.
STEP 8: Setting Up Equipment
Position your heater in your aquarium. Wait 15 minutes before plugging in the heater and turning it on. This will allow the heater to adjust to the temperature of the water and avoid any damage to the heater. Position your filter and insert the filter media. (On a new aquarium it is recommended to use Foam, Carbon, and Ammonia media) Add some water into your filter and turn it on, this will start the syphoning faster. Install the thermometer. Adjust the heater temperature control until the desired temperature is reached (Usually 76-80 degrees) Place the lid and light on the aquarium. Check all cords to make sure they are free of water. It is recommended to use a “drip loop” on all cords incase of a water leak.
STEP 9. Wait.....
The aquarium MUST complete the nitrogen cycle before it is safe for your fish. There are products available to help speed this up. One option is to only add one or two smaller fish to the tank for approximately 4 weeks to assist the nitrogen cycle. After a few week the water will turn cloudy for a day or two, then become clear....you will now know that the aquarium has completed the nitrogen cycle and is safe to add more fish.
This is VERY important and often overlooked amongst beginners.
STEP 10. Add Tropical Fish
Add one or two fish at a time. This will give your filtration the proper time to control the biological load which will increase each time a new fish is added.
Always float the bag your new fish comes with in your aquarium for about 15 minutes so the water temperatures will become similar. Add some of your tank water to the bag to create a similar pH level. This will reduce the stress on your new fish. Use a net to remove the fish from the bag and add into the aquarium. Since the new fish will likely not eat on the first day, there is no need to feed it until the next day.
STEP 11. Maintenance
Water changes will be required every two weeks. Generally, 10% of the water should be removed using the vacuum and then re-adding with fresh de-chlorinated water. This will reduce harmful nitrite levels. The tank should be scrubbed each week to avoid buildups.
Source: fishlore.com |
