By: Carlos_X3

Betta information:
Scientific name: Betta Splendens
Common name: Siamese fighting fish, Fighting fish, Betta fish
Max size: 7-9 cm’s/ 3-4 inches (Females smaller at half the size of males)
pH range: 6.0 - 8.0
dH range: up to 20
Temp. Range: 24C - 29C / 76F - 84F

Betta fish are some of the most beautiful and most popular freshwater fish around. They come in a variety of colors and a variety of long, flowing fin tail styles. They are hardy and intelligent fish with great individual personalities.

Betta classification:
Betta Splendens are part of the family Osphronemidae which contains more than 50 different species including Gourami‘s. The root word Betta comes from the Siamese name “Ikan Betta” which means Siamese Fighting Fish.

Betta in the aquarium trade:
The Bettas we see in stores are all captively bred, wild Bettas look far different than the ones we see today. Wild caught Bettas are dull colored and have shorter fins. In most fish store’s Bettas are kept in inhumane conditions usually in cups simply because they possess an organ that allows them to take in air from the surface, an adaptation to bad water conditions. But that’s not the worst part, on delivery to the fish store Bettas come in tiny individual bags with just enough water to cover there body often drowning from tiny holes in there baggy. They are one of the most widely distributed fish in North America.

Betta habitat and range:
The Betta originates from the Tropics of southeast Asia; Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia and Vietnam. They are native to the Mekong river basin in Thailand where the water is soft and slightly acidic with a slow current. They also inhabit muddy, shallow rice patties temporarily until it rains enough to bring them back into the waters. In the wild they feed almost completely on zooplankton and the larvae of mosquitoes and other insects. Knowing your Bettas natural habitat and history helps you to provide a healthy environment for them and in turn a very happy Betta.

Betta description:
Male Bettas are known for there brilliant colours and long flowing fins where as females are without the long flowing fins and less visible colour. There exists at least 13 different colourations and several tail configurations. Males stay small under 3 inches and females stay smaller at about 1.5 inches, although recently “Giant Betta’s” have been developed exceeding 3.5 inches in length.

Betta behaviour and suitable tank mates:
Male and female Bettas flare or "puff out" their gills in order to appear more impressive, either to intimidate other rivals or before mating. Generally, males are more aggressive than females although some types of females have a wide range of aggression. Bettas can be territorial in the aquarium and may be unwelcoming to new tank mates, it is advised to have tank mates in your aquarium before you introduce a Betta. Never keep two male Bettas together unless a proper divider is in place or else they will fight each other to death. A male Betta may get along with female Bettas but there must be 4-6 females in the tank which must be atleast 10 gallons. Common tank mates include Platies (Moons), Corydoras, Loaches, non fish species can include dwarf frogs and snails. Females can be kept with Danios, Tetras, Barbs and Gouramis. Incompatible tank mates are fish that are under 1 inch in size, fish with long flowing fins, slow swimming fish such as fancy Guppies, Mollies, schooling fish because they tend to nip, predatory and aggressive fish, Gold fish. Some people have kept there Bettas successfully with some of the above but it is not recommended and it depends on your Bettas level of aggression. If you plan to keep your Betta in a community aquarium than the tank must be of atleast 10 gallons in size.

Betta setup:
In reality, like any other fish, bettas are healthier, more active and will often grow larger when they are kept in a roomy tank. No less than 2 gallons of water is adequate for a Betta, 10 gallons is enough to keep a healthy flourishing Betta, bowls and vases are not recommended and are inhumane. Live floating plants and caves are an ideal setup for the Betta fish. Clay pots and floating Watersprite works great. Gravel or sand is fine for substrate as long as it is aquarium safe and thoroughly cleaned. Pool filter sand (Silica sand) is a cheap but visually appealing substrate. Your Betta will explore and appreciate all the space and setup you give it. Bettas are known to explore all areas of its tank including decorations such as castles. To avoid injury to your Betta, stay away from sharp decorations or sharp fake plants, a Betta will easily rip its long delicate fins or scratch its body off a sharp item in his tank.

Betta care:
A common misconception about Bettas is that they thrive in small containers and that they are extremely low maintenance. The betta is a tropical fish and does best when kept in a tank with a heater. Temperatures lower than 76°F (25°C) render the fish lethargic and illness-prone. They do best at 82°F. Like any fish, drastic and sudden temperature changes will harm your Betta. Bettas are also sensitive to pH levels, they do best in pH levels around 7.0. Bettas appreciate a place to hide so give them one, plants in the aquarium will promote healthy waters. In smaller aquariums, weekly water changes are necessary or else bio waste builds up causing your Betta to die from ammonia and nitrate build up. The new water should be aged by letting it sit for a day and the water must be conditioned with a conditioner or dechlorinator. Your Betta must always be acclimated to large water changes.

Betta feeding:
Bettas are carnivorous (meat eaters), therefore require a diet consisting of bloodworms and brine shrimp as the most common foods. You can feed your Betta fresh or frozen foods or special Betta pellets. Bettas sometimes have a tough time understanding pellets are food, in such a case you might want to try a different food after a period of time. A healthy Betta diet is as follows: High quality Betta pellets, frozen or live; bloodworms, brine shrimp, mosquitoe larvae, krill and tubifex worms. It is important not to overfeed your Betta and only feed it what will be consumed in a short period of time. A swollen or bloated body is a sign of overfeeding. Bettas will occasionally eat vegetables such as green peas, soy beans, corn, carrots and even brocoli.

Betta disease:
Ich, Fin Rot and Velvet are common diseases with Bettas. A clean environment and a proper diet will most likely prevent the occurrence of such diseases. Always be prepared for a sick Betta, local fish stores will carry meds, there is also “Betta Fist Aid Kits“ found online. Some signs of a sick Betta are: does not eat or eats reluctantly (spitting out his food), is not active ( lays at the bottom, in a corner or at the top), color is dull, body may have; open sores, white cottony patches, red spots, lumps or white spots, damaged scales. A sick betta must be isolated and treated properly.

Final comments and suggestions:
Research prior to purchasing a Betta or any other fish for that matter, do not buy on impulse without having a clue. Take care of your Betta, give it your time and attention and in turn you will find a long term friend.


Sources: elmersaquarium.com, wikipedia.com, aquaticcommunity.com